Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
